Eggs in Purgatory

15th Mar 2007

eggsinpurgatory01

I'm not sure why, but it wasn't until last week when my mom handed me a fresh copy of Heat , that I realized I had forgotten to read it.  I'd read another Bill Buford book, his manic and terribly disturbing Among the Thugs , along with his New Yorker profile on Batali and a narrative on his experience slaughtering animals in Tuscany, the latter two of which are included in some form in...

The Slow Egg: How to Use Loads of Butter and Lose Ten Pounds

1st Mar 2007

incredible egg 08

As you might imagine, I read a lot about food.  I have the Omnivores Dilemma , The United States of Arugula , Julie and Julia , Garlic and Sapphires , In Search of Perfection , Real Food , and I'm Just Here For the Food , not even counting regular old cookbooks, and the four or five wine and spirit guides.  While I enjoy some of the gossip of the food world, I get...

Handmade Eggnog: Creates Arm Pain, Soothes Arm Pain

20th Dec 2006

eggnog 09

Let's say you're just not feeling the joy you need to properly celebrate a festive party.  It's the holiday season, and you need a slightly alcoholic milk product to help you reach that next level of cheer.  The store-bought stuff?  Gluey and tasting of artificial thickeners.  You need some true, homemade eggnog--that's been established.  Perhaps you prepared for this situation and made t...

Patois: Best Brunch in Brooklyn?

24th Aug 2006

By Blake Royer Library_5693 It's difficult, sometimes, to make Brunch plans.  They usually happen in a haze at 1:30 in the morning, when everyone's hungry, a bit tired, and getting very sentimental.  "Oh, let's all wake up and have a big intimate meal together tomorrow!"  It's a way of ensuring, in hopeful and vague way, that the night never has to end--just after a short nap, we'll all get togeth...

Dear Mom: This is the Breakfast in Bed That We Would Have Made You for Mother''s Day if We Could Have Afforded the Plane Ticket

14th May 2006

P1010110 Happy Mother's Day, Mom.  We know we might not be lawyers, stock brokers, or those people that have "money" or whatever that's called.  But we can cook.  And had we been able to be with you today, and, had we awoken (most likely by you) at the absolutely absurd hour that you rise, this is what we would have done.  So, please.  Stay in bed, read some of that paper and enjoy a full menu dedi...

How to Throw a Successful Tapas Party

In which we find a wildly handsome Spanish man

tapasparty01

Step 1: Find a Spanish Man.

tapasparty02

Step 2: Find a Spanish Ham.

tapasparty03

Preferably, a wildly handsome Spanish friend with a hunk of Spanish ham that his mother sent him.  Jorge had looks.  And he had the ham.   What follows is an evening of many, many stages that included overcoming fears of anchovies, quail eggs, and two romantic party members who ate their share, doted on each other, and c...

Egg Mayonnaise and Cress Sandwich

Recreating a fond memory from being poor in London

14th Feb 2006

Though egg mayonnaise is essentially the same thing as American egg salad, it doesn't taste like your average pitch-in.   The mayonnaise was creamy but it had a lightness to it, which probably has something to do with the proportion of ingredients.  Instead of deli-style New York sandwiches where a literal pound of meat is thrown on each sandwich--"It's like a cow with a cracker on either side,...

Aged Goat Cheese Omelette With Thyme

This is what happens when you start cooking before you’ve put in 30 seconds to check if you actually have what you need.

25th Jan 2006

Library_3519_1

When I can’t decide what I feel like cooking, I’ll often visit epicurious.com and bum around until an ingredient that sounds great pops up--then I’ll start searching for that ingredient and I always find something that sounds tasty.  In this case, my ingredient was goat cheese.  I was doing a few searches at www.jamieoliver.com --we basically follow him and his British humor around with to...

Dinner with Genghis Khan

We did our research, spared no expense, and faced the terrors of salmonella. We survived to teach you how to give this haughty dish an American makeover.

Leonards The Paupered Chef ransack their local butcher in search of the fresh meat to one of France's most risky dishes. Will they have time to cook it?

dinnerwithgenghiskhan04

The Paupered Chefs ransack their local butcher in search of fresh meat for one of France's most risky dishes.  Will they have time to cook their steak tartare? We did our research, spared no expense, and faced the terrors of salmonella. We sur...

Pasta Carbonara

This recipe loses the cream altogether, replacing it with white wine.

15th Jan 2006

Pasta Carbonara

  • 1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 3 thin slices bacon
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 pound farfalle pasta
  • 4 egg yolks
  • small handful chopped Italian parsley
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup of pasta cooking water

Serves 4.

Recipe adapted from Cucina Rustica

pasta carbonara2

Get a huge pot of salted water boiling...