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  • pajeon 1

    I recently experienced Korean Barbecue for the first time, and I'm not sure I'll ever be quite the same. For days afterwards, I could taste the spicy, sweet, marinated short ribs between my teeth. The heady scent of kimchi haunted me; I'd walk around corners and swear I could smell it. Korean barbecue is soul food. It's comforting, the flavors are deep, and it's all based around communal eating.

    The concept of Korean barbecue is a large cooking vessel in the center of the table, sort of like a grill, which is covered in different meats and vegetables that have been marinating in various things. As the meat finishing cooking, it is fished from the grill with greedy chopsticks and consumed, sometimes wrapped in crunchy lettuce, sometimes in thin sheets of pressed rice.

    After my meal with an old friend who spent a year living in Korea -- he took us to a spot in LA that had "the best marinade" in his knowledgeable opinion -- I've been scheming with Nick about how we could recreate some of the experience in our home kitchens.

    korean barbecue 1

    Nick's a little more experienced when it comes to Korean barbecue, having already explored the marinated short ribs (also known as Galbi), and tended to a fierce kimchi obsession for a couple years now. But we're both newly and equally fascinated with the rest of what makes Korean barbecue special, besides the meat: the side dishes.

    Known as Banchan (or Panchan), these are sundry little tastes and bites that complement the meat in Korean barbecue. The banchan are as important as the meat itself: they cut the richness and round out the meal so you don't finish feeling full of meat and sick, but rather satisfied and suprisingly light.

    The most well-known banchan is simple cabbage kimchi, which inevitably comes out at every restaurant (most restaurants will simply serve the banchan they're best at making). But there are many other things, dishes based on egg, other kinds of fermented vegetables, thinly sliced radishes to clean the palate, crunchy lettuces, sticky-sweet potatoes. The options are endless.

    Pajeon is a common panchan, a simple egg-and-flour pancake served with a wonderful dipping sauce. The traditional ingredient is scallion, though lots of other vegetables will make their way into recipes such as zucchini or even seafood.

    The simple solution was our goal. We didn't want to load our first pajeon down with lots of extraneous stuff. We wanted the texture and flavor to be just right: crisp on the outside especially along the edges, soft and slightly gummy in the center.

    Even without the barbecue part, this thing is filling all on its own, a satisfying, simple meal unto itself.

  • By Blake Royer There are two kinds of cookbooks: some...
  • gastrique 1

    Once we had blanched and peeled the tomatoes we chopped them, strained the seeds, and simmered it for twenty minutes into a simple sauce. Then I made my gastrique, which involved no measuring -- maybe 1/4 cup of vinegar and 3 tablespoons of sugar -- and a quick boil into something thick and syrupy.

  • Most people return from the beach with tans; I returned with tomatoes. It was a half-bushel, to be exact, and they were stashed in the back of a car as it wound its way from North Carolina, through the Great Smoky Mountains, and, some 16 hours later, finally to Chicago. Why such extravagant measures for tomatoes?

  • bratwurst01

    I have been thinking about bratwurst for days.  What started as an idea for a simple cookout on my little Webber Grill has now completely consumed me because I simply can't find the right recipe.  The question eventually led me to walk into Hot Dougs on a recent Wednesday and ask Mr. Doug himself what was in the sausage. 

    But first, do you know?  What is it, exactly, that makes a bratwurst a bratwurst?  I know this sounds like an obvious question, but really...think about it.   I've been eating them since I was a little kid and they've always been huge off-white sausage stuffed into a bun and slathered with mustard.  I know what to expect when I eat one.  And they certainly don't look like a hot dog.  But I don't honestly know what it is that makes them unique.  Is it the combination of spices, certain kind of meat, or the cooking method? 

    I thought the answer would be simple when I began this search.  I started in the natural place, with Michael Ruhlman's Charcuterie.  His bratwurst recipe is a mixture of pork and veal with the "traditional sweet-spice bratwurst flavors of nutmeg and ginger".  But as I read on I realized that there was something awfully different about the resulting sausage.

    The ultimate fresh bratwurst, this is one of the richest sausages here, given it's generous use of cream and eggs.

    Say what?  I wanted the sausage that is stuffed into a casings, poached in beer, and then grilled until crispy on the outside.  The more I looked into it, the more I realized he was probably describing the original German version of the sausage, which I'm absolutely sure is delicious.  But it's not what I wanted. 

    I realized that what I wanted was a Wisconsin bratwurst, the kind that is stuffed in a big bun, and topped with sauerkraut and grainy mustard.  You eat these fresh off a grill with a beer in your hand.  Unfortunately, though there is loads of praise for the Wisconsin specialty, there isn't much talk about what goes into them.  In fact, most recipes out there are for how to cook pre-made sausages, not how to make them from scratch.  That's when my search really began. 

  • secret to great brussels sprouts 5

    The hatred of brussels sprouts: a childhood universality. It's part of growing up.

    But is it really fair? As children, we harbor a distaste for most vegetables, from peas to asparagus, but a special place in hell is reserved for the sprout named after Brussels, and it seems to extend to adulthood. Most kids hate asparagus, but most adults love it, especially with a little hollandaise or topped with a fried egg. Not the humble sprout. Its reputation is continually sullied.

    But I say part of becoming a man is leaving behind childish things. Part of becoming a man is learning to love the Brussels sprout.

    Here's the good news: they can taste remarkable if you cook them properly. Caramelized and golden, they become sweet and addictive (spoiler: we're not going to be boiling them). As is true with most things, true enough to make it a principle of cooking, brown is flavor. Almost without exception. As close as possible to the moment when something turns black, the better it's going to taste. Whether its actual caramelization, the browning of natural sugars in the food, or the maillard reaction, a complex interplay of sugars and amino acids that's responsible for the crust on a great steak, to the tongue it's all the same: great flavor.

    secret to great brussels sprouts 4
    Brown is flavor, people

    Brussels sprouts belong to a plant group called Brassica, which also includes cauliflower, broccoli, and cabbage. All of these vegetables are remarkably resistant to burning. You can throw cauliflower in a 500 degree oven and roast it within an inch of its life, even until it starts to turn black, and it will only taste better.

    Brussels sprouts are the same way. You just cook the hell out of them, toss them with balsamic vinegar, and call it a dish. If I were organized, I would have timed this article for Thanksgiving, as a perfect side dish. But nonetheless, the gospel of Brussels sprouts ought to be preached.

    For this article, I went with a David Chang recipe I found in an article on GQ.com, in which some bacon is cut into matchsticks, fried up in a skillet, then the sprouts are caramelized and roasted in the rendered bacon fat. A squirt of spicy sriracha and a splash of lime juice brings a bracing spicy-tart against the sweet-salty-bacony sprouts. It's kind of marvelous. And it takes about 15 minutes to make.

    But they're just as good with a little olive oil and balsamic. The elements you need are high heat, salt, fat, and some kind of acid.

    What's your favorite way to doll up this misunderstood vegetable?

  • homemadetahini1
    Is store bought tahini best?

    The goal is to make hummus at home with no shortcuts. I’m an apprehensive hummus fan at best, having dipped one carrot stick too many into something chalky and pasty, which claimed to be hummus but was purchased quickly from the grocery store. You could say that I’ve been ruined by the silky smooth texture of real hummus, the kind the comes with a sheen of rich olive oil on top, which is spiked by lemon and maybe a sprinkling of paprika. That's hummus.

    It shouldn’t be that hard, and I wondered if I could beat store-bought hummus in both price and taste. Hummus is nothing more than a mixture of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, lemon, garlic, and salt. To make this homemade version I figured I'd pick up a cheap bag of dried chickpeas and I'd be halfway there. Besides the olive oil, lemons and garlic (which I’d buy at the store), all that stood between me and perfectly homemade hummus was tahini. Surely I could find some way to make this at home.

    According to various sources, tahini is just ground sesame seeds. What could be simpler? But recipes are especially elusive. When you Google "tahini recipe" what mostly pops up are posts for tahini sauce, which is regular tahini mixed with lemon and garlic. That’s fine, but how about a recipe for regular tahini paste? Can this actually be made at home?

    pc hotsauce 6
    Sesame seeds toasting for a failed experiment.

    I found this random recipe, which quickly toasted sesame seeds, and then ground them in a food processor with olive oil. It sounded fantastic, but I was unfortunately left with a horribly chunky mess that tasted and looked much like sand. No pictures are necessary. I also stumbled onto this recipe from the Kitchn, which actually managed to look worse.

    Whom could I turn to for help?

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  • nick and blake