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Serious Eats Roundup: Summer Corn, Succotash, and Sizzling Steaks August 23, 2010 Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats. "Dinner Tonight" Column QUICK MEALS TO YOUR TABLE FIVE DAYS A WEEK. Chicken with Tomato-Saffron Vinaigrette with Mixed Greens Paprika and saffron help give a vivid orange-red tinge and a round, mellow flavor to this simple summer salad. Summer Succotash with Bacon Lovely, lovely bacon fat and a shot of sherry vinegar... Read the Full Article	Griddled Carne Asada Tacos July 9, 2010 Or, the best carne asada tacos we've ever had As far as I know there are only two kinds of ways to make carne asada. The first method is to take thinly sliced flank or skirt steak, sear it over mad charcoal fire, chop it up, and then stuff it into warm corn tortillas. It's almost always great. The second method is the kind that most taquerias use, which is to scoop some bits of raw steak, plop it on a grill, and sauté until it is cooked. This one is almost always bad. The... Read the Full Article	Serious Eats Roundup: Smoked Paprika, Sriracha Mayonnaise, and a Salad BLT July 6, 2010 Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats. "Dinner Tonight" Column QUICK MEALS TO YOUR TABLE FIVE DAYS A WEEK. Steak and Eggs with Smoked Paprika A sprinkle of smoked paprika helps wake up this breakfast classic. Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato Salad with Aioli Dressing This dish reinterprets the ingredients of a BLT as a refreshing summer salad. Flounder Sandwich... Read the Full Article	Serious Eats Roundup: Prosciutto, Pistachios, and Papaduzul June 7, 2010 Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats. "Dinner Tonight" Column QUICK MEALS TO YOUR TABLE FIVE DAYS A WEEK. Shaved Asparagus, Pea, and Prosciutto Salad Blake takes advantage of asparagus season by shaving the spring vegetable thinly and tossing it in a salad. Yucatecan Papaduzul (Enchiladas Stuffed with Hard-Boiled Eggs) Pumpkin seeds flesh out this authentic Yucatecan... Read the Full Article
Serious Eats Roundup: Cornmeal-Crusted and Pan-Fried April 26, 2010 Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats. "Dinner Tonight" Column QUICK MEALS TO YOUR TABLE FIVE DAYS A WEEK. The Best Oyster Po' Boy Outside of New Orleans Nick still can't reach the perfection he found in New Orleans, but this cornmeal and flour crusted oyster recipe comes the closest. Cornmeal-Crusted Pan-Fried Trout Sometimes the simplicity of a freshly caught fish requires... Read the Full Article	Serious Eats Roundup: Respect the Cow February 15, 2010 Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats. "Dinner Tonight" Column Quick meals to your table five days a week. Chipped Beef Gravy "I can't be the only one who grew up with this meal," Nick writes. 67 comments later, we think he has his answer. Roasted Salmon and Potatoes with Cucumber Relish 20 minutes in an oven turns out this classy dish. Sichuan Boiled Beef in Fiery Sauce The fury... Read the Full Article	Year in Review: An Obsession with Beef December 14, 2009 Best of the beef. When Blake and I sat back and looked at what food obsessed us in 2009, we noticed an unusual interest in beef. Pork is still the hippest meat around, and praise for beef sometimes seems limited to talk about steaks or short ribs. We wrote about both of those cuts this year, but we did it our way. We also managed to dress up mounds of round, tenderize brisket, turn chuck into the tender foundation of chili, and wax poetic about the... Read the Full Article	In Search of the Cheapest Sous-Vide Steak December 4, 2009 How to transform cheap meat. This is why beef chuck roast cooked in a 131°F–140°F (55°C–60°C) water bath for 24–48 hours has the texture of filet mignon. - Douglas Baldwin, A Practical Guide to Sous Vide Cooking After my experiments with sous-vide chicken resulted in one of the finest birds I'd ever eaten, I immediately set off on a crusade to transform the cheapest cut of beef I could find into filet mignon. I know this... Read the Full Article
The Butter Steak: What's the Best Way to Cook a Steak? April 9, 2009 How to cook your next porterhouse. I'm not interested in carbonizing the surface of the meat. To me that ruins the flavor. - Alain Ducasse It was a bachelor weekend of sorts. My wife mercifully let me pass on attending a wedding of an old family family friend, so I had the whole weekend alone in the apartment to get work done. I had some crazy projects planned including a mad braise of a cow tongue, but the first night alone was all about pure unrestrained male... Read the Full Article	Dipping Into the Italian Beef February 11, 2009 Discovering Chicago's distinctive beef sandwich. The mystery is that while the sandwich's meat is incredibly tender, it isn't made from some expensive cut of beef. From the research that I've done, most Italian beef recipes call for round or the sirloin tip, which are both tough and lean cuts. The use of a cheap, neglected cut really interested me. At first glance, the sandwich looks a lot like a cheese-less Philly cheesesteak.... Read the Full Article	La Cabrera, Buenos Aires, Argentina January 28, 2009 When I arrived in Buenos Aires, "Ojo de Bife" ("eye of beef") was at the top of most steak menus, giving the blessed ribeye its appropriate place in the steak pantheon. It reminded me of a Jeffrey Steingarten passage from his essay in Men's Vogue about a search across Spain for great steak--which has led me to order ribeye almost exclusively since reading it: ...the most delicious beefsteak is a thick (about two and a... Read the Full Article	Buenos Aires January 25, 2009 You might assume that Nick has hijacked The Paupered Chef, chopped my body into little pieces and hid me in the attic (between sessions of ravioli-making and chili shenanigans). But this is not the case; I am alive and well. I left Estonia for close to a month to bask in holiday cheer back home in the States. But now I've returned to the cold and dark climate of Northern Europe, where the sun still slips below the horizon... Read the Full Article
The Quick-Flipped Fat Burger August 26, 2008 Keep that spatula at hand. At first everything was fine. Taking a cue from Adam Kuban, we decided to make our own onion rings instead of the normal burger pairing of fries. The recipe was taken from Simply Recipes, which soaked the onions in buttermilk and coated them in flour and cornmeal. We fried them in canola oil set to 350 degrees for a few minutes, until nice and golden brown. We stashed them in preheated oven and got to the beef... Read the Full Article	They Came, I Ground, We Ate: Which Cuts Make for the Best Burger? February 22, 2008 How to make a better burger at home. The first question was what cuts were best to grind. Which led me to another question: what exactly are we looking for in a hamburger? Jeffrey Steingarten wrote a piece in Vogue (thank goodness Ed Levine recorded the results on A Hamburger Today, or we'd all be in the darkness that is food life without a subscription to Vogue, a magazine that refuses to share Steingarten on the Internet) asking just that question, and settled... Read the Full Article	Steak au Poivre: Real Cheap and Kind of Authentic September 17, 2007 First was the rather easy substitution of bourbon for the cognac I tend to spend way too much time researching what I'm going to eat. Nearly every recipe is cross-examined against other works I have, just to make sure I'm doing things correctly. But I was on to this recipe the moment I saw Alton pull out his steaks. I didn't check if this was the authentic way to make this, I just went for it. What could cause me to go into such enthusiastic fits? Steak au... Read the Full Article	Kimchi and Me: Steak and Eggs over Kimchi Rice May 24, 2007 Lest you all forget my infatuation with the pickled cabbage, it is powerful. When I worked in Manhattan, the attraction to the stuff had me trudging over to the Korean buffet at least once a week. But I no longer work in Manhattan, and while I'm very happy with my new job, I do miss my kimchi. I’m not sure why it never occurred to me until now to secure my own stash. Like a lot of ethnic foods, I always wanted to place... Read the Full Article
Skirt Steak with Red Potato Salad and Greens (A Harmony, Starring Limes) April 5, 2007 Sometimes all you can hope for at the end of a long day is a little bit of harmony. Whether through yoga, walking your dog, or blasting Bona Drag, you find it and somehow the day washes away. Often I find this harmony by cooking (sometimes with the Morrissey at the same time)--a chance to relax, create, and then have something delicious to show for it. I have a recipe that, while deceptively simple, works so well that it... Read the Full Article	Is Broiling a Steak as Good as Grilling One? November 29, 2006 There is "no doubt early man cooked his meats using dry heat," claims Madeleine Kamman, author of the esteemed Making of a Cook and a very friendly-looking lady who I sometimes wish was my grandmother. She speculates that he might have discovered this gastronomic feat in the instance of two different accidents, producing two enduring ways of cooking meat. The first, a discovery of whole animals while foraging for food... Read the Full Article	Filet Mignon the Poor Man's Way November 15, 2006 Every weekend I quickly scan Fairway's specials to see what deal I'll get off with this week. This time, I thought it was a joke, because I saw this sucker staring back at me. Filet Mignon for $5.99, which is a minor miracle on par with shooting stars and finding a real pastrami sandwich. Considering this cut regularly fetches prices that stumble towards the $20 mark, something had to be wrong. This is the leanest... Read the Full Article	Fajitas With Charcoal and a Sprinkling of Rust November 5, 2006 I screwed up. During the last throes of summer, I treated my grill with the utmost love and care. But I'm apparently a fair-weather fan, for as soon as the temperature dipped I completely forgot about it and retreated into the warmth of my kitchen. Not only did I neglect my cooking apparatus for a solid month, I didn't even bother to cover it. I didn't even set it close to a wall. It sat in the middle of the back... Read the Full Article
Skirt Steak with Haughty Green Beans October 30, 2006 I had no idea. Abby and I are staring at this picture of skirt steak with string beans with mouths agape, salivating over the chance to make this fine meal, when we notice that nowhere in the ingredients are those beans listed. We double check, and then wonder what it was exactly that we were looking at. All they they had was something called haricot verts. "I'm not sure what that is," I blabbered out trying to... Read the Full Article	Sizzlin' Steaks the Down-home Ole' Fashioned Way September 22, 2006 Just like your grandmother, I now own a cast-iron skillet. It seemed like the logical choice after I realized the finite possibilities of non-stick, yet was not ready to burn my whole month's salary on an All-Clad frying pan. This cost $19. It's heavy as a brick--actually, more like a couple bricks. You can toss this war-horse around with glee and it will take it all. Clang it around as loud as you can, see if it... Read the Full Article	A Surf and Turf Story August 18, 2006 We christened him Kurt and set about trying in vain to keep him alive. The ride back from Fairway was not long, but we needed some wine, and the car was quite stuffy and hot. Blake, strangely, began developing an affection for the creature, and cared for him so deeply he wouldn't leave him in the car alone. So we carried him into our liquor store, LeNell's, and asked the owners what wine would best go with him. And with two... Read the Full Article	How to Throw a Successful Tapas Party II: Paying Handsomely at Casa Mono April 5, 2006 In which our minds are blown by the food Founded by Mario Battali and Joe Bastianich, Casa Mono is no culinary secret, nor is it hidden in some trendy outpost like Red Hook or Bushwick. It sits in stately Gramercy amongst the trees of Irving Place, which hush the hustle of neighboring Union Square. I'd never stepped foot in a Battali-affiliated place before, and I felt nervous and ready. It's not that his restaurants are exceedingly expensive (Del Posto obviously excluded... Read the Full Article
Roasted Pepper Potato Salad with Grilled Steak March 1, 2006 Food photography is an obsessive business. Pictures are alluring, appetizing, what make somebody want to try the recipe. There are times when, obsessed by lighting, aperture, and focus, we forget about the actual eating part. Look at that piece of meat. See the grains? Looks good, eh? Trust us, it was succulent. There's nothing quite like a warm salad in the winter, sharp, crispy greens balanced by a... Read the Full Article	Pan-Seared Salmon with Pasta and Spinach Cream Sauce February 9, 2006 This pasta is surprisingly light, a delightful characteristic considering the richness of the cream. While our enthusiasm for cooking has grown immensely over the past year, we still feel mostly reluctant to toss our recipe books aside and approach the task with our own original ideas and ingredients. A sense of improvisation comes with confidence, and as the acting theorist Konstantin Stanislavski suggests, cultivating concentration and trusting one's instincts. Instincts. We don't do those so good. See,... Read the Full Article	"Wit What?" February 1, 2006 An exploration of Philadelphia's quintessential greasy delicacy...the cheesesteak With Blake off for the weekend, Nick blew the whole... With Blake off for the weekend, Nick blew the whole Paupered Chef budget on a $20 Chinatown Bus ticket to Philadelphia in search of the city's quintessential greasy delicacy...the cheesesteak. Armed with locals with serious appetites, he checked out some of their favorite institutions in search of the real thing...Wait, with cheez whiz? Up until three months ago, I wasn... Read the Full Article	Dinner with Genghis Khan January 22, 2006 We did our research, spared no expense, and faced the terrors of salmonella. We survived to teach you how to give this haughty dish an American makeover. The Paupered Chef ransack their local butcher in search of the fresh meat to one of France's most risky dishes. Will they have time to cook it? The Paupered Chefs ransack their local butcher in search of fresh meat for one of France's most risky dishes. Will they have time to cook their steak tartare? We did our research, spared no expense, and faced the terrors of salmonella. We survived to teach you how to give this... Read the Full Article