The Secret | Brussels Sprouts

How to rescue a childhood horror.

1st Dec 2010

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The hatred of brussels sprouts: a childhood universality. It's part of growing up.

But is it really fair? As children, we harbor a distaste for most vegetables, from peas to asparagus, but a special place in hell is reserved for the sprout named after Brussels, and it seems to extend to adulthood. Most kids hate asparagus, but most adults love it, especially with a little hollandaise or top...

The Plea for Turkey with Mole

Ditch the roast turkey this Thanksgiving

24th Nov 2010

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How turkey should taste.

Question: What iconic Thanksgiving food would you get rid of?
Answer: Twenty percent of chefs would prefer to get rid of the turkey altogether.
- GQ's The Great Eat Like a Man Thanksgiving Chef Survey

Here’s the question: Why is everyone working so hard to not screw something up when Mexican cuisine has figured how to make one of the greatest dishes in...

Check Us Out in Newsweek

15th Nov 2010

20101115 hotdogs

Here’s something I never thought I’d say: pick up a copy of this week's Newsweek , and you'll find my name on page 56, next to a little photo spread of Chicago's glorious hot dog!  They're paired with a great article by Julia Reed about our great high and low end cuisine—from Alinea to the best hot dogs in the country—and the arrival of the Michelin Guide in Chicago (By the way, I’ll...

The Allen & Son Barbecue Sauce Dilemma

What to do with a jar of barbecue's liquid gold?

11th Nov 2010


Moments like this don’t happen often. I recently met up with a friend whom I hadn’t seen in a while, when he handed me a white bag with something surprisingly heavy in it. He’d just gotten back from North Carolina, and while he had hinted at some kind of “precious cargo” in a previous e-mail, how was I supposed to guess that I’d look into the white bag and find the abov...

Better Than Southern Fried Chicken?

Thailand-style fried chicken

8th Nov 2010

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The crackliest chicken you can imagine.

I caught your attention with that title, didn't I? Well, the same thing happened to me, when I stumbled on a recipe in The's food section in a post about Bangkok street vendor fried chicken--the recipe for which the author cajoled from the street vendor, then scaled down for use in the kitchen. And yes, he called it better than Souther...

The Homemade Hummus Challenge: Are Dried Chickpeas Better Than Canned?

A fool-proof method discovered.

3rd Nov 2010

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If you don’t want to go to all the bother of soaking and cooking them, canned chickpeas work extraordinarily well
- James Beard, Beard on Food

I wanted to go to all the bother of cooking dried chickpeas from scratch. Why? Well, because I never had cooked dried chickpeas before, and I really wanted to see whether taking the time to cook them from scratch would make for a more delicious...

Apologies for the Construction

1st Nov 2010


You may have noticed that we are having a few technical difficulties at this time. We were hacked this morning, and had to jettison the old design for now, which leaves us with this ~~ default picture of an old man walking down a tree-lined path. However soothing the image may be, it doesn't have much to do with food, and we promise to fix this glaring error as soon as possible ~~ . Update: ...

Serious Eats Roundup: Chorizo, Creama, and Goat Cheese

25th Oct 2010

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Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats.

"Dinner Tonight" Column


Green Tomato Soup with Black Forest Ham
The soup is chunky, relatively light, and a great showcase for the green tomato's bracing acidity.

Pasta with Broccoli, Goat Cheese, and Oregano
Gordon Ramsay's recipe is kind of the goat-che...

Serious Eats Roundup: Quinoa, Chickpeas, and Chicken

18th Oct 2010

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Our weekly roundup of what the two of us have written over on Serious Eats.

"Dinner Tonight" Column


Quinoa, Chickpea, and Spinach Salad with Smoked Paprika Dressing
I picked this recipe from Bon Appétit solely for the smoked paprika dressing.

Roasted Chicken and Butternut Squash Soup
Roasting adds a depth of flavor that simmering wil...

Can You Make Homemade Tahini?

On a search for the lesser-known ingredient in hummus

13th Oct 2010

Is store bought tahini best?

The goal is to make hummus at home with no shortcuts. I’m an apprehensive hummus fan at best, having dipped one carrot stick too many into something chalky and pasty, which claimed to be hummus but was purchased quickly from the grocery store. You could say that I’ve been ruined by the silky smooth texture of real hummus, the kind the comes with a sheen of ri...